Any way to loosen stiff rotary knobs on gear? De-gunge?!

I’ve recently picked up an old second-hand Traktor Kontrol S5 DJ controller and a couple of the rotary knobs on the FX unit section are particularly stiff. I’m wondering if there’s any way I can try to loosen them up a bit or what might be causing it. I don’t really want to open the unit, that’s way out of my comfort zone and I’ll probably do more harm than good.

Can I use any sort of cleaner that could get rid any gunge inside without damaging the electronics? I know liquid and electronics do’t generally go well together.

Any other suggestions?

In case the knob is dirty or rusty, you could first try with compressed air and then with the contact spray. If the knob has been damaged and therefore off axis, the only solution is to replace it (send the unit to assistance)

Compressed air:

Contact cleaner:

Thanks for the tips. I tried an air duster which I had lying around by just spraying into the gap between the shaft and the case (under the actual plastic knob) and it didn’t seem to do much. It’s hard to describe - although the knob turns fine it feels “heavy” like it’s got something dense and sticky it has to turn through.

With that contact cleaner, do I have to open up the case or can I spray it into the gap where the shaft enters the body (I’m really trying to avoid innuendo, it isn’t easy) or do I need to open it up to get to the inside?

To be fair, this thing could conceivably be as old as 2015 (which is when I think they released the S5) so I wasn’t expecting perfection.

You don’t have to open the case for the contact cleaner, unless you want to minimize how much of it you get on your surface, it won’t harm anything, but had a smell to it, that can easily be mopped up with paper towel. Just spray the cleaner, rotate the knobs a few times and use a towel to mop up excess. That easy.
If that doesn’t work then perhaps spend an afternoon rotating the knobs to lose them up, in case it’s a new potentiometer stiffness type of thing.

The ancient times

I think of that as old with electronics, not people! I tell you what, my old parts need something to loosen them up these days!

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If it was me I’d spray in a spot of contact cleaner, no need to go mad with it. Then air duster to blow out the residual cleaner and gunk then you need to lubricate. The cleaner is like a solvent and will break down the lube already in the pot so that will need replacing.

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This step is 100% essential if you intend to use contact cleaner on a pot or encoder.

Since the FX section probably has the most opportunity to be exposed to someone’s constant heavy-handedness, I would not dismiss the possibility that the shafts are off axis, that the knob caps have become impacted against the deck, or that there is some other potential obstruction like the shafts are misaligned with the faceplate.

Try first removing the knobs from the stiff pots and then rotate the pot shafts to see if you still feel any resistance. The knobs are meant to be removed and can be easily put back on, no harm done. You can see if the stiffness persists, you can also visually inspect both the relative vertical position of the shafts (are they comparitively 90 degrees to the deck?) and confirm if the shafts are concentric to the hole in the faceplate (are they centered properly).

It will be easier to choose a course of action after that. If it’s just stiff with no obstruction, you might try the deoxit fader lube, it’s inexpensive and highly viscous. It’s also made for this application.

Thanks for the help.

So does this mean I can use this product alone and not use the contact cleaner first? I think the pot shafts are centred OK, the knobs don’t move about their centre when I rotate them and the shafts don’t look misaligned in their respective holes. Can I use this stuff without disassembling the unit? Just spray it through the pot shaft hole?

This is all just my experience, you do what you want.

The oil comes in a little tube, like clipper oil, but for faders.

Deoxit has many products, but there are there are 2 kinds which will probably be most relevant, one is a spray that has a cleaning agent mixed in with the lubricant (fn5s-2 quick evaporating, f5s-h6 extra flushing) But those will still leave the knobs possibly more loose than you want them to be. The one with the cleaner may not be necessary since there is no direct connection to the audio and it doesn’t sound like there’s any issue of conductivity.

The other type is just a lubricant (F100L-L2C) it also comes in a larger size but the product is the same.

You can find these on amazon or any number on places online.

I learned the hard way that although you can use contact cleaner, the fact that it isn’t meant for use on potentiometers makes the extra steps necessary to succeed when using it a bit taxing.

My volume pot was scratchy, I used contact cleaner, then my scratchy pot was no longer scratchy - it was instead loose and wobbly. I tried the lube and it was not sufficient to replace the normal firmness or get rid of the wobble, so I had to go through a labored process to regrease it with the fader grease which is another slightly more expensive product, not just the lube. The grease is thick so without disassembling the pot it’s very difficult to get it into the area between the shaft and the bushing where it is most needed. You would with 100% certainty need to take apart the machine to do it that way.

After application, I had to use various strange methods to push as much as possible down into the gap, all while turning the shaft in order to make sure it was distributing evenly.

When you clean a pot, you’re supposed to take it apart and reapply the grease from the inside, but if you’re going to desolder it to remove from the board and disassemble, go through all that hassle and risk, you may as well just be replacing the pot as it’s almost always a 3 or 4 dollar part.

And it’s easy to say “only spray a little” but in reality, contact cleaner comes out of the can like a fire hose. I’m pretty well acquainted with using spray cans so I’m not exaggerating when I say the contents are under high pressure.

This is what you’re up against, it’s a video I took of what it looks like when you spray “a little” contact cleaner.

So To me, I would start with the $6 fader lube in a squeeze tube, apply a little and turn back and forth a bunch of times to let it seep in, try a little more if needed. Start thinking about spraying things if that doesn’t work.

First I’d remove the knobs and verify the issue still persists and that the hesitation isn’t friction from parts in contact with each other. If it’s internally stiff I’d try what I’ve suggested going one step at a time.

That’s advice though, not the law, so make your own call based on what you’re comfortable doing. Could be better to live with a stiff potentiometer feel.

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Cheers, appreciate the detailed reply. I found the little tube of stuff which looks easier than the fire hose spray so maybe I’ll start with that. The reviews seem to be positive and at least one reviewer has used it for the exact same purpose of sticky knobs on amps and old hi-fi gear etc.

hope that does the trick. use in moderation, you can always apply more if what you dispensed is not enough.

One thing I will say after looking at @shigginpit’s well documented journey is that it may be a lot cheaper and easier to simply replace the pot. This will depend entirely on if you already have soldering gear or a good friend with it. But you’re guaranteed in this case to have a perfect functioning pot without any headaches.

A new pot will cost a couple of quid and isn’t too much trouble to remove and replace - seems like you’d be spending a lot of time and money on attempting a repair that might have undesirable results. I’m terrible at desoldering but I’ve replaced a couple of pots on Moog semi-modulars and it’s not too much trouble to disassemble/break them down enough to remove the pins with ease, and soldering in a new pot is a minutes work.

It was easier the second time when I did it with my 202, but I still had to gut the machine to make it happen. Judging by opening the box being out of his comfort zone I think the $6 fader lube is the least expensive starting point.

I agree though, with a braided desoldering wick, it wouldn’t be much of a chore for someone with even a basic iron and some decent flux. I haven’t quite got the hang of my desolder pump yet but I’m sure that would work also.

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That’s fair, although I’d personally want to open the box to do the lubing (as you did), things could get messy quick…

Lots of good advice here though - especially checking the shafts and the knobs first - I’ve fixed a ‘stiff pot’ by moving the knob up slightly on a couple of euro modules it does happen!

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Opening it to add the lube would be ideal, but with a bit of mindfulness I think the basic application from the tube is fairly well measured so it will probably work out ok. I’m pretty quick to open boxes though lol sometimes just to take a look inside.

Have to replace the video cable on my laptop very soon and that will entail removing the screen which is adhered to the lid with double stick tape. The process is apparently more than a little bit fiddly from what I’ve seen, so that’s the one box I’ve not been eager to get into.

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The deoxit stuff in a little tube has worked wonders. Thanks for al the advice folks!

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yessir.