Hello !
It happened 3 or 4 times in the past months … i turn on my Digitakt and it is filled with static electricity, so strong i can hardly handle it in the first seconds !
First i was thinking it mght come from my old Behrginger BFC2000, which plugs directly into the wall, but i removed it !
Any idea ? similar experience ?
Cheers
I would recommend to stop rubbing balloons all over yourself.
Failing that, you need to make sure it’s grounded through the mains.
You could ground it externally.
This is weird – something is broken. I’d wonder more about the power supply than the DT.
I’d contact Elektron support, it definitely is not good, and has the possibility to break the DT if any of the static got inside the box.
So it doesn’t happen every time but is only very occasionally – maybe it’s the Digitakt that is grounded, and Amniil (who is not grounded) is doing something else so that he’s the thing that is charged, not the DT and so he then gets a shock when he touches it?
This would concern me enough to not use it until contacting Elektron support about the matter, and proceeding as advised…
I recall having this issue with an Octatrack- I think it might be the power adapter.
If you have a Digitone by chance, perhaps try replacing the DT power with the DN and see if that resolves the issue.
If you can’t troubleshoot in this manner- probably best to play it safe and contact Elektron to avoid any potential unnecessary hassle
Thank you for the answers !
My Digitakt seems to be properly plugged (original Elektron adaptor, outlet with strip earth) …
I am generally speaking a quite “electric guy” … i dont rubb myself in anything ^^ but i frequently get hit by static electricity when touching a car, some clothes, kissing someone …
It has stopped for the moment, but if it comes back, il will contact the support !
It was nice knowing ya…
Asked R&D to put together an answer for this a while back. I will paste it below. It’s basically since the unit is not grounded, have a metal chassi and has a switching power supply. It’s harmless and all similar constructed electronics have it. The size of capacitors in the PSU affects how much it’s felt.
In transformer-isolated AC to DC power supplies, the first component that the AC cable attaches to is a transformer that lowers the voltage down to a level that is manageable for the AC to DC converter circuitry. Although the transformer windings on the primary side (mains voltage) and the secondary side (low voltage) are isolated from one another, they are never completely isolated, because together with the air around them, they will form a weak capacitor. This is called the leakage capacitance of the transformer, and is a phenomenon that occurs in every transformer. As capacitors pass AC voltages, some of the mains potential will “leak” from the primary side to the secondary side, which will be visible on both the plus and minus DC outputs. So, the “0V” and “12V” of the power adapter are called only “0” and “12” because of convention, it would be equally correct to call them “-12V” and “0V”, as they are not referenced to the house ground in any way, they are “floating” on top of whatever voltage leaks from the input transformer.
The key is to realize that although it is possible to measure this voltage with a voltmeter, you would not be able to measure any current flow with ammeter. As the mains potential is very weakly coupled through air, the actual AC current that can flow from the chasis to your body is immeasurably small. Some people report tingling sensations when their skin touches the metal casing. There have been many similar discussions on forums concerning Apple products with metal casings. We measured 94VAC on the casing of the newest Macbook Pro.
There are some ways to design the power supply that will mitigate this issue, but we have not found them to be feasible. We can give two examples:
Using a transformer with a shield (a metal plate between the primary and secondary) which is referenced to safety ground. This would effectively cancel the leakage capacitance, but would require a special transformer and a 3-pronged power connector. This kind of power supply is not available from suppliers, and would have to be custom made.
Using a 3-pronged mains connector, and using a 3-conductor DC cable to the unit that has the plus, minus and ground. Then the chassis could be connected to the house ground. This would require a special connector and cause worse headaches.
In practice, connecting any of the outputs or inputs to a grounded device will make this voltage disappear. If you are bothered by the tingling and you are in the studio, you could keep the machine to your grounded mixer or to a computer via USB. On stage, it might be trickier to avoid it. When using the machines on their own, you will have to live with this.
Thanks !
I didnt get the physics part in all the details … but it is nice to know it is harmless !
Edit 
I hope I solved the problem …
I got back to my Digitakt and it was LOADED with static electricity, even radiating around 
But it disappeared with I separated my Digitakt from an OTO Biscuit (
what a machine) a friend lent me recently. They were touching each other, and it is also a not grounded metal chassis with a switching power supply.
I get massive horrible shocks from the HDMI cable from my tv with an adapter for my Mac at the end. Luckily my Digitakt is fine!
I also get shocks when I get out of my desk chair if I don’t hold the metal arms at the same time.
The world is weird.
Hi Elektronauts! I found that my Digitone and Digitakt are giving me an electric punch. Of course it’s not a high voltage impact, but still not very pleasant thing. It remains even when devices are switched off but power adapter is connected. So probably there is something with isolation. Does anyone have the same? Is it a common thing? I have 5 days to send devices back
I would suspect it’s more likely to be your mains power, I have both and never experienced anything like that and it seems unlikely that you would have 2 dodgy units. Does it happen with 1 plugged directly into a socket? You can get outlet testers. I’m no expert on such things but to me it sounds worrying and could have exposed a potentially serious problem with your electrics.
Just read the reply three(!) posts above your reply…
Edit: Sorry, I did not see that the post was moved here…
it was merged here a short while ago 
No worries, we all want to know the answers 
